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  • #91
    greddy turbo kit is more like 7-10 psi...

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    • #92
      Originally posted by Jason View Post
      A full log from the ECU and supporting log equipement tells you that.

      No knock, uninterupted timing advance, and a steady fuel curve. If you have all that you have a good tune, regardless of how much HP you get. If you want to know how much power you made on that tune, run it on the dyno.

      Now if you want to make more power, it's time for a hail mary/dyno tune. Crank up the boost, run your AFR to 12.5 and pray it all holds together. (just don't roll it like that on the street)

      No again, you can acheive a solid tune FROM a dyno. But imo, it's better to shop for a tux in a tuxedo shop, then at the swap meet. And by this, I mean it's better to tune your street car ON THE STREET where it'll spend the majority of it's life, rather then tuning it on a dyno where you get a glimpse of "what might be" in a controlled environment and you're left to guess/estimate what variables you may encounter in the real world (outside of the dyno).



      I respecfully disagree. I agree with the idea from a high level, but there are just too many variables to consider. It's like Having a 700WHP turbo kit on a honda fit. You cannot say that just because you aren't hitting that 700 figure that you are concervative with room to spare....

      That was an extreme example, so if you're saying that all supporting components are in place that will sustain a 500WHP figure on a car (say for example yours) then yes, tuning it to 400 might be conservative. Then again, who's to say how well it's running at 400?? *Answer: The tune will tell you (or rather the LOGS from the tune).

      So while we're debating similar things, we need to put them all together....

      You will start off at point A (your base tune).
      You then log how your engine is doing (rich/lean, retarded/advanced)
      You make changes where needed, one variable at a time (fuel/timing/boost)
      You relog

      When you cannot raise the boost without knock or it simply runs out, you're maxed.
      When you cannot raist your timing without knock or detonation, your maxed.
      When you cannot lean out your car without endangering internals, same.


      And when you've found the sweet spot by balancing all of the above, you're golden.

      *No you can play around with all the variables in order to get what you want (max power/max gas milage/max reliability). The HP numbers will vary accordingly.

      **And my point about the dyno vrs the street is simply that when you tune for peak power on a dyno, you may not get the same results on the street, because the street has other variables the dyno doesn't account for. And if the tuner accounts for them by leaving margins for error in your fuel, timing or boost, it's just a guess. Where as when you're finished with a street tune, you're more or less done.

      (lol...until you get on the dyno and want a dyno sheet with higher HP)
      don't forget cam angles. how much angle can u get out of before you knock or piston hit the valve.

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      • #93
        Originally posted by Hustler_Alex View Post
        no need for dyno chart,k pro does it all,who wants some,i need LSD tho
        street tune and dyno tune is a huge difference. most people who street tune don't advance timing or increase angles. if anything, you're detuning from hondata base maps.

        you won't be pushing anywhere near 300 hp without a good dyno tune. case in point, look at jon/boredfast's old greddy setup.

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        • #94
          Originally posted by Hustler_Alex View Post
          I tuned my car on the dyno at 302 on 91 pump gas with 10psi

          2.5 catback and 750cc injectors,i street tuned my car yesterday,i was getting some engine knock as i was only tuned for dyno not for street,but im well under 290.With k pro you can do pretty much anything you can on a dyno
          there's no relevancy between what kpro can do and what a dyno can do... they're independent of each other. kpro is just a programmable ecu. dyno tells you how much you're putting down.

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          • #95
            internals?
            I go to the gym so I can look good naked.

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            • #96
              i doubt it. if you had internals, wouldn't be going for greddy kit. would be going more custom or full race.

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              • #97
                I have 440whp right now.

                dont ask me for a dyno sheet cause its my daily driver.

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                • #98
                  Originally posted by Jeff D View Post
                  I have 440whp right now.

                  dont ask me for a dyno sheet cause its my daily driver.
                  Thats it? weaksause. haha

                  I have a suzuki cappuchino with 718WHP but i have no dyno chart. I just used a used V-afc to street tune it. Plus I can tell how much WHP it is by the # of houses i can pass in 10 sec's while in 3rd gear.
                  I go to the gym so I can look good naked.

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                  • #99
                    Originally posted by Hustler_Alex View Post
                    i can boost up anywhere up to 15-17psi without a problem
                    with no internals? U just turbo charged a future paper weight.
                    I go to the gym so I can look good naked.

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                    • honda motors are cheap anyways. $4000.

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                      • Originally posted by coredump View Post
                        honda motors are cheap anyways. $4000.
                        or spend a little less and do it right.
                        I go to the gym so I can look good naked.

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                        • we're honda owners. we never do anythign right.

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                          • Originally posted by coredump View Post
                            we're honda owners. we never do anythign right.
                            well...at least you admit it. lol

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                            • ^lol

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                              • and our cars still dont break down.

                                lawl.

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