greddy turbo kit is more like 7-10 psi...
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Originally posted by Jason View PostA full log from the ECU and supporting log equipement tells you that.
No knock, uninterupted timing advance, and a steady fuel curve. If you have all that you have a good tune, regardless of how much HP you get. If you want to know how much power you made on that tune, run it on the dyno.
Now if you want to make more power, it's time for a hail mary/dyno tune. Crank up the boost, run your AFR to 12.5 and pray it all holds together. (just don't roll it like that on the street)
No again, you can acheive a solid tune FROM a dyno. But imo, it's better to shop for a tux in a tuxedo shop, then at the swap meet. And by this, I mean it's better to tune your street car ON THE STREET where it'll spend the majority of it's life, rather then tuning it on a dyno where you get a glimpse of "what might be" in a controlled environment and you're left to guess/estimate what variables you may encounter in the real world (outside of the dyno).
I respecfully disagree. I agree with the idea from a high level, but there are just too many variables to consider. It's like Having a 700WHP turbo kit on a honda fit. You cannot say that just because you aren't hitting that 700 figure that you are concervative with room to spare....
That was an extreme example, so if you're saying that all supporting components are in place that will sustain a 500WHP figure on a car (say for example yours) then yes, tuning it to 400 might be conservative. Then again, who's to say how well it's running at 400?? *Answer: The tune will tell you (or rather the LOGS from the tune).
So while we're debating similar things, we need to put them all together....
You will start off at point A (your base tune).
You then log how your engine is doing (rich/lean, retarded/advanced)
You make changes where needed, one variable at a time (fuel/timing/boost)
You relog
When you cannot raise the boost without knock or it simply runs out, you're maxed.
When you cannot raist your timing without knock or detonation, your maxed.
When you cannot lean out your car without endangering internals, same.
And when you've found the sweet spot by balancing all of the above, you're golden.
*No you can play around with all the variables in order to get what you want (max power/max gas milage/max reliability). The HP numbers will vary accordingly.
**And my point about the dyno vrs the street is simply that when you tune for peak power on a dyno, you may not get the same results on the street, because the street has other variables the dyno doesn't account for. And if the tuner accounts for them by leaving margins for error in your fuel, timing or boost, it's just a guess. Where as when you're finished with a street tune, you're more or less done.
(lol...until you get on the dyno and want a dyno sheet with higher HP)
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Originally posted by Hustler_Alex View Postno need for dyno chart,k pro does it all,who wants some,i need LSD tho
you won't be pushing anywhere near 300 hp without a good dyno tune. case in point, look at jon/boredfast's old greddy setup.
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Originally posted by Hustler_Alex View PostI tuned my car on the dyno at 302 on 91 pump gas with 10psi
2.5 catback and 750cc injectors,i street tuned my car yesterday,i was getting some engine knock as i was only tuned for dyno not for street,but im well under 290.With k pro you can do pretty much anything you can on a dyno
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Originally posted by Jeff D View PostI have 440whp right now.
dont ask me for a dyno sheet cause its my daily driver.
I have a suzuki cappuchino with 718WHP but i have no dyno chart. I just used a used V-afc to street tune it. Plus I can tell how much WHP it is by the # of houses i can pass in 10 sec's while in 3rd gear.I go to the gym so I can look good naked.
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